The Khmer Empire and civilization of Angkor rose in 802 with the unification of the Khmer state and declaration of its independence from Indonesia. With the spread of Theravada Buddhism from Sri Lanka, the Khmer rulers relocated to Phnom Penh, ending the Angkor Period in 1432. During the 630 years of Angkor, a fascinating city of stone was erected in a 200 sq.km. area. The largest stone monument is Angkor Wat, a name often incorrectly applied to the entire region.

THE WATS
Each Wat has its own significance and differs in detail, style, and structure. Some are immense, while others are minor. Most have carved relieves depicting the life and history of the Khmer Empire. Religious carvings are a mixture of indigenous animism, and Buddhism and Hinduism from Indian influence. Visiting the major sites is a full day outing from sunrise to sunset on a hired motorbike. A more leisurely course requires several days. We covered the major sites (Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prohm, Banteay Srei, and Angkor Wat) as well as a few minor sites (Terrace of the Elephants, Terrace of the Leper King, Phimeanakas, Ta Keo, and Spean Thma) in a day.

THE LANDMINE MUSEUM
When in Siem Reap, also visit the free-admission Landmine Museum. The museum is a private collection of mines and bombs that were disarmed and cleared from the Cambodian landscape by the proprietor. He also provides support to some children who lost limbs to landmines still scattered around the country. His only funding is by donation. A large donation box conspicuously sits in the middle of the room but no pressure is applied to visitors

The Landmine Museum corrected some misconceptions we had from action films. In the movies, the hero who steps on a land mine is often saved by a partner who charges into the tense victim, throwing each other off the mine quickly enough to escape injury. The mine explodes on pressure release. We learned at the Landmine Museum that in actuality, the fuse of the mine detonates immediately upon pressure application. There is no escape. Furthermore, mines are designed to maim, not kill, because an injured person is more costly for the enemy than a dead one. Many of the mines on display contain metal pellets encased in plastic. On explosion, these pieces of shrapnel turn one or both legs into a mush resembling ground beef. This is how the young boy being supported by the Landmine Museum described his amputated leg.

The mines come from the US, China, and Russia. Most of the Chinese and Russian mines were planted by opposing forces during the Vietnam War to hinder movement and infiltration of enemy units from certain areas. Many of the US mines were dropped on the country by high flying US bombers in theory to stop movement of the North Vietnamese Vietcong through Laos into Cambodia.

Today, an estimated 3 million mines still line the Thai-Cambodian border. Mines also litter the rest of the country to a lesser degree. 10 minutes after crossing the border from Thailand, we heard a BOOM from inside our bus. Villagers pointed and ran to inspect the source. An unfortunate cow found a landmine in a plowed field. Our entire surroundings immediately became suspect. We couldn't have had a better reminder not to stray from the well trodden paths in Cambodia.

GETTING THERE
Siem Reap is easy to reach from Bangkok and Phnom Penh. From Bangkok, a minibus departs Khao San Road at 06:30, reaching the Cambodian border 4 hours later. After crossing the border on foot, a different bus transports the passengers to a guesthouse in Siem Reap. The fare from Bangkok to Siem Reap differs according to the point of purchase and the nationality of the passenger. The cheapest ticket price is found at Backpacker's Place one side street south of Khao San Road. Westerners were charged 70 Baht (US$1.63) and Japanese 270 Baht (US$6.28). On the same bus were a German couple who bought their tickets from an overpriced travel agent for 950 Baht each (US$22.09). We were told the price difference attributed to nationality was based on the likelihood that the passenger would stay at the guesthouse in Siem Reap where the bus terminates. The Japanese tend to head for Takeo Guest House, reducing other guesthouse owner's incentive to subsidize Japanese passengers' bus fares. From Phnom Penh, a daily morning boat (US$23) and truck (US$7) go to Siem Reap.